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DIY Bar with Poured-in-Place Concrete Countertops



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This was the first Concrete Countertop project did where we poured the counters in place and finished the top with a trowel. In the past we have cast concrete countertops face down in melamine molds. We built the frame for this structure out of 2″ by 1/8″ steel angles that we welded together. larger sections would also work but I would still keep the concrete about 1.25 inches thick to keep the weight down. I am really pleased with how these counters have held up. we have moved this bar multiple times and put a lot of strain on it and we don’t have a single crack in the concrete. We made this industrial modern bar for outdoor use in Joshua tree. It is a very dry desert climate and we don’t have to worry about the steel rusting too much. We special ordered Quikrete countertop mix from Home Depot. This product is not typically on the shelves so you have to call in ahead and order it to be picked up. Quikrete 5000 is an off the shelf product that would work but I would use a large mesh so that the gravel could move through the steel mesh.

link to products:
Quikrete Countertop Mix

Ridgid Cut-Off Machine:
Steel Mesh:

I used a cordless circular saw, jigsaw, orbital sander, and drill from:

Link to Cumaru decking:
I bought 8-foot long 1” x 5-1/2” boards for $25.52 each from

I considered using Ipe deck boards to build this sofa but ended up picking Cumaru boards instead since I liked the color better and they were cheaper.

Finishes:
Paste wax for sealing the concrete, steel, and the ends of the Cumaru

Teak Oil

RZ masks are my favorite dusk masks!

This video was sponsored by Quikrete
Additional info coming soon to HomeMade-Moder.com

source: https://tim2lead.com

Xem thêm các bài viết về Giải Trí: https://tim2lead.com/category/giai-tri/

29 thoughts on “DIY Bar with Poured-in-Place Concrete Countertops

  1. thiw turned out wonderful. have you tried applying something rubbery on the tips of the legs? (to protect the flooring) do you know if there is such a thing?

  2. How did you check for full penetration? I didn't see any dye pen test and the only other way is destructive testing ie cutting it apart or breaking it

  3. It would be cool if you dipped the bottom 0.5" or so of the legs in epoxy or something so that it was less likely to scratch/indent the floor.

  4. It seems crazy thzt this is the first time I’ve seen an ‘in-situ’ concrete pour – such a great idea Ben. Video came out great 👍

  5. The mullet hat made me miss my old, actual mullet (actually miss my hair in general). Also, this is re-peaking my desire to do concrete counters in our eventual kitchen remodel.

  6. Really nice, and thanks for the video. However I have to say that eventually that wood board below the concrete will rot and start to chip and fall, I have seen it many times where wood is used as mold and left in permanently. I would do it another way that will leave only a concrete slab.

    Get a melamine board that is a little longer and wider than the metal top (where the concrete will be) and then clamp it or bolt it down to the metal frame with the melamine facing down if it has is in just one side of the board. Now turn all the table upside down and rest it over some heavy surface. Put some silicone caulking all around where the board joins the metal frame and then spray some cooking oil spray all over the surface of the melamine. Pour part of the concrete all across the board, then the screen mesh and then the rest of the concrete until is full. Shake it to remove hair bubbles and wait for it to dry. When you remove the board the surface of the concrete will be completely smooth, with just a minor sanding needed.

  7. I'm always inspired to work more with concrete and metal after watching your vids. Also, I give two thumbs up to the mullet hat.

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